Beiträge von Ambientheater77

  • Data van gpio pin delen?

    hey,


    ik heb hier 2 ledstrips parallel aangesloten als kerstverlichting op een 2 x WS2801 4 draads, de ene 2 en de andere 3 meter.
    Dus ja dat kan prima, maar het signaal SPI/PWM is dan al gemaakt dus hoef je geen Hyperion op een 2e PI meer voor te gebruiken.


    Dus ja je kan de output op de GPIO parallel gebruiken ( 2 of meer ledstrips) en draadloos verzenden naar Arduino kan waarschijnlijk ook en weer gebruiken als input als zijnde van GPIO en output van Arduino aansluiten op de 2e ledstrip en besturen met 1 Hyperion instantie...
    kwestie van uittesten. :)

  • LEDs lassen sich nicht steuern.

    There's one thing you can do, check your settings in Hyperion if smoothing is off and see if this helps. You can do this with tab remote.


    It's also possible to measure SPI activity on gpio pins with a test program.
    Very weird because WS2801 is the easiest strip there is

  • LEDs lassen sich nicht steuern.

    Zitat von Ramon

    Now, I tried a standard 5V 2A Phone power supply which suprisingly has clean 5V and again only the 3rd LED was on and the controling didnt work. I think the LED stripe is broke.


    thats the thing with searching for flaws/mallfunction, option out what it isn't and you will end with the thing that is wrong.
    however, that the ledstrip is faulty is possible.

  • LEDs lassen sich nicht steuern.

    Zitat von Ramon

    Hi, so corrently I am about to dissable my old PC to get the PSU XD
    Here are some pics to show my current wiring (with the "unclean" power supply, to give a better overview I took the same color for the jumper wires as the wires on the LED stripe


    Could it be possible that I destroed the chips by putting to much volts on it?


    .
    i looked at your hardware connections, its okay


    no not from only 0.5 volts

  • LEDs lassen sich nicht steuern.

    Zitat von Ramon

    I have got a “normal” power adapter (amazon above). So i can't really ground it to the raspberry. I have an old pc but i think it is 12V not 5


    PSU of a pc have normally 12volts positive 5 volts positive, and 3.3 volt positive lines. Yellow is 12 volts red is 5 volts, orange is 3.3 volts


    black is always negative or GND (ground)


    Look into what you can do and not what you can't do.
    It always possible to ground your devices.
    and measure your PSU lines then you are shure.



    grounding is connecting all GND ( -) connections together on PSU.
    it makes sure that all electronic flow wants to come back to GND which improves electronic devices and currents.

  • LEDs lassen sich nicht steuern.

    Zitat von Ramon

    could you maybe explain that a ground problem is more specific


    mesure: it put out 5.43 V so maybe its that (is there any you can recommend, I have this one: )
    wiggle: wiggleing didnt do anything
    pressing: i tried on some random LEDs and they lit up white


    well acually the 3rd light is blue but not pretty bright



    5.43 is to much voltage so chances is big thats the problem.


    grounding is important> on the PI, there are more GND pins. connect these and then bring them back to GND of our PSU.
    use a diffrent PSU for power and see what happens.


    if you have a old ATX PSU (from computer) u can use these for power colours red and black

  • LEDs lassen sich nicht steuern.



    hello,



    i have the same setup almost


    it can be a ground problem ( ground everything to more then one PIN and then to GND)
    if thats not it, your PSU is not putting out a clean 5volts DC (use a multimeter to verify) if there's a AC rimple on it its possible the leds is not firing.


    A LED is a light emiting diode and very very sensitive for AC rimples, sometimes in DC PSU there's a glimpse of life.of AC in it.


    you can also touch the beginning of the ledstrip, the chips are very tiny and soldered to the strip and loosens> if that happens then the whole ledstrip from that point will not light.
    so check the beginning where the connector is soldered to the strip and wiggle a little.




    few points;
    measure DC
    wiggle the strip
    press your finger on the chips in the beginning.


    note; sometimes 5 volts DC should be exactly that to fire the lights too much DC voltage ( for instance 5,20 volts) can be responsible for the problem of no
    lights at all... in that case its better to lower the DC voltage exactly or under 5 volts like 4.9 volts.

  • Ambilight in „Kodi“ und „für externes Gerät“ umschalten

    Zitat von satfan

    no one has any help for me ?






    To switch between diffrent instances;




    make a new instance with preferred settings,


    you can run a second LED configuration instance in Hyperion, make a second LED instance and select.


    then run the wanted instance right above in Hyperion web page, with green dot ( icon of two arrows)


    then it"ll run your second instance.




    so you can make two diffrent configurations with in one the internal grabber and in two the external.
    in this way you are not corrupting the Json file which is really sensitive for changes in it :)



    tip; before you do this make a backup of your Json so when second instance goes bad then you can turn back to default.

  • New hardware, same issue...

    Zitat von Tyler983

    everything works perfectly during use, but when I turn off all the sources there is always a portion of the LED that stays on. This bores me a lot



    actually i know this symptom, with my setup > if i power the lights but Hyperion and the PI still have to boot then some of the leds in the ledstrip WS2801 that i use now for christmass decor are lighted.
    this happens because the chip on it gets some power to it and fires the diode (LED), if you put power on it without GPIO data flow then some lights will light.


    for example when you put your fingers over the connection solderpoints with power on ( NO GPIO data ) you will see that certain lights will respond and change colours and everything.


    your problem with the APA102c is diffrent because all data is coming from Hyperion which controls the GPIO's.
    What you can do to resolve this, put a resistor in series with GPIO DATA (DO) to put down the GPIO out-puls when not in use.
    what you also can do is just power off your ledstrip powersource and/or raspberryPI when not in use.



    what is did; i made a relais switch board to switch 4 channels with toggle function
    .


    1; main power
    2; power on grabber USB
    3; power on PI
    4; reserved

  • Advies gevraagd



    interne grabber, je bedoelt waarschijnlijk het beeld vanuit je HDMI aansluiting op je PI naar je installatie toe.
    Ik denk dat ik wel een idee heb, je moet je HDMI geforceerd zetten/geforceerde resolutie in config.txt


    als ik op een default installatie een HDMI aansluit om de eerste settings te maken dan heb je automatisch de goede resolutie UIT op je HDMI.
    echter als ik dan mijn HDMI eruit haal houd ik een heel rare resolutie over op mijn desktop van de PI [ die noem jij dus interne grabber] :)



    settings in config.txt op geforceerd zetten zou moeten helpen, even kijken of ik een voorbeeld voor je heb.



    # For more options and information see
    # http://rpf.io/configtxt
    # Some settings may impact device functionality. See link above for details


    arm_freq=900
    force_turbo=1
    max_usb_current=1
    avoid_warnings=1
    avoid_warnings=2


    # uncomment if you get no picture on HDMI for a default "safe" mode
    #hdmi_safe=1


    # uncomment this if your display has a black border of unused pixels visible
    # and your display can output without overscan
    disable_overscan=1


    # uncomment the following to adjust overscan. Use positive numbers if console
    # goes off screen, and negative if there is too much border
    #overscan_left=16
    #overscan_right=16
    #overscan_top=16
    #overscan_bottom=16


    # uncomment to force a console size. By default it will be display's size minus
    # overscan.
    framebuffer_width=1920
    framebuffer_height=1080


    # uncomment if hdmi display is not detected and composite is being output
    hdmi_force_hotplug=1


    # uncomment to force a specific HDMI mode (this will force VGA)
    #hdmi_group=1
    #hdmi_mode=1


    # uncomment to force a HDMI mode rather than DVI. This can make audio work in
    # DMT (computer monitor) modes
    #hdmi_drive=2


    # uncomment to increase signal to HDMI, if you have interference, blanking, or
    # no display
    #config_hdmi_boost=4


    # uncomment for composite PAL
    #sdtv_mode=2


    #uncomment to overclock the arm. 700 MHz is the default.
    #arm_freq=800


    # Uncomment some or all of these to enable the optional hardware interfaces
    dtparam=i2c_arm=on
    dtparam=i2s=on
    dtparam=spi=on


    # Uncomment this to enable infrared communication.
    #dtoverlay=gpio-ir,gpio_pin=17
    #dtoverlay=gpio-ir-tx,gpio_pin=18


    # Additional overlays and parameters are documented /boot/overlays/README


    # Enable audio (loads snd_bcm2835)
    dtparam=audio=on


    [pi4]
    # Enable DRM VC4 V3D driver on top of the dispmanx display stack
    dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d
    max_framebuffers=2


    [all]
    #dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d