turn off smoothing and test again, you can turn it on and off easely in remote controll
Beiträge von Ambientheater77
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so SPI is working then, did you turn off smooting option in Hyperion
?Troubleshooting
Loopback test
This can be used to test SPI send and receive. Put a wire between MOSI and MISO. It does not test CE0 and CE1.wget https://raw.githubusercontent.…ntation/spi/spidev_test.c
gcc -o spidev_test spidev_test.c
./spidev_test -D /dev/spidev0.0
spi mode: 0
bits per word: 8
max speed: 500000 Hz (500 KHz)FF FF FF FF FF FF
40 00 00 00 00 95
FF FF FF FF FF FF
FF FF FF FF FF FF
FF FF FF FF FF FF
DE AD BE EF BA AD
F0 0D -
got this from a source;
To check if the SPI module is loaded by the system run the following command :lsmod
You should see “spi_bcm2708″ or “spi_bcm2835” listed in the output -
I thinking something may be broke with the RPi
its not the quess that i have, because your hyperion is fully functional.
are you sure that SPI is enabled in config.text?
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Sorry, was genuinely curious, not being confrontational. I do appreciate you taking your time to reply. as you can see from the images they are grounded together on the breadboard. All +5v and gnd connections are common.
I'm using the stock settings for the LEDs for APA102 inside Hyperion, I don't see anything on lights when I startup. I thinking something may be broke with the RPi, but i'm inexperienced with this.
no problem
can you make an screenshot of your settings in led settings ?
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Why does this matter? I'm under the impression that supplying power to the Pi via the USB gives you protection via the onboard fuse?
its not we are only here to help others that are struggling with their installation.
sometimes power faillures happening when powered with USB port.grounding is very important for the ledstrip, so if i was you i ground everything together. Also directly from your pins!
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I'm using Hyperbian and can see Hyperion running at the IP address of the Pi on port 8090, just get nothing from the LEDs. SPI is enabled.
you where not really clear about your installation and progress but nevermind..
go to section remote controll and turn off section smoothing, if leds coming on now then you need an update.
if not its probably something in Led settings thats not okay.
when hyperion boots up you have to see the startup effect ( rainbow) if not then something is wrong
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Then, Hyperion service isn't running when booting up so in terminal type hyperiond and then enter
you can go to SSH terminal with putty ( its a program) but only works when SSH option is enabled on your PI
you can find that in sudo raspi-configfirst do the settings with an HDMI cable to your monitor
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Thanks for the reply, i'm not sure what you mean?
use pin 2 and 4 for power + and use at least 2 ground points. When powerpins used don't use the USB power inlet.
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I have just trimmed the first couple of LEDs of the start of the strip and flashed a D1 Mini with WLED for the APA102 and the LEDs work great, I still get nothing from the Pi.
try to feed the power + directly on the pins, and ground the (-) pins also back to the board.
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DON'T DO IT MY WAY!!! Web GUI goes offline every time I shut down and I can't get it back. I am planning to reimage with HyperBian at this point.
i (partially) retract my last statement. I think the settings DID carry over - I went in and just saved them again and the lights started working again. But the import of settings from alpha 8 did bork things up!
thats the thing i was talking about
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1. open web GUI and backup current settings to .json file
its better to make screenshots with your camera from the localIP:8090 and put the settings back with a new build of Hyperion.
Why? because Hyperion builds can differ and settings that where in the old aren't in the new or viseversa.example is the smoothing section that causes ( or caused) a lot of problems when activated in 2.08
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i have this one that is capable of set your EDID values with dipswitch and spliiting 4K signal into 1080p ( without interfering main HDMI signal)
https://xolorspace.com/product…os=1&_sid=0ebc909ff&_ss=r -
how can I test the internal grabber? would I need an HDMI male to USB male cable?
the internal grabber is on Hyperion (local IP:8090) to select, normally USB grabber is selected with priority 240. just deselect that and select internal frame grabber
no you don't need other type of HDMI cables to test a non 4k signal to your grabber. -
new problem. Everything works flawlessly.....sometimes. Sometimes the LEDs just flat out stop lighting. If i toggle USB Capture under remote control on and off it comes back on for any where from 2 seconds to 2 minutes then its back off again and Hyperion is disconnected and I no longer see "USB Capture: (V4L2:auto)" if I toggle it again it comes back but disconnects again shortly after.
My HDMI splitter is showing no connection to the Capture card(grabber?) after this point(generally signified by an LED light being on next to the subsequent HDMI out port) Could that be an issue with the grabber itself? or software any help would be appreciate folks
first try if the same problem you have now also persists if using the (internal grabber)
if its not; probably the signal with EDID values from the splitter ( or before that) isn't really understood by receiving party > your grabber.
the problem excist because the image have to be spliced up into two, i had the same problem with HDMI output on my reciever...
sometimes the signal was there or it broke off my tv signal !so what to do probably ( if i am reading correctly)
purchase a good 4k> HDMI splitter with capability to adjust EDID values manually with dipswitch, this will force the signal to the grabber AND the main signal to your tv is not intercepted anymore.you can also try in terminal lsusb with this command you can see if grabber is recognized the moment your screenshot in hyperion fails.
goodluck!; ps i have my splitter from XOLORspace
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Any idea what could be the cause? I'm guessing its something with the power?
I think ( strongly) the USB-C expect an smart signal from the device. USB-C only works when the device is connected to a smart loader like a chargingadapter or station or capable USB-C smart device output.
that said. Just connect your power from PSU 15A directly on the 5 volts en GND pins of the PI, that will reroute the power internally.
i think that will work, however i don't have a PI4 so you have to find out the power pins.also remember that everything to PSU connected should be grounded together
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The data cable is very short, about 8cm because the nodemcu is really close to the ledstrip. I'm also powering both ends of the strip, the initial part with 5V, data and ground, the end with only 5V and GND.
I'm about to test a connection between the gnd from strip + nodemcu to a gnd on the PI and the ground from the PSU to a gnd on the PI.
If it doesn't work I'll test with short distances.Thanks a lot for your help
yes okay man, and sometimes you need ( if i read the guys storys here) a resistor between the pin and data
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The PI is powered indipendently.
also test with using only ONE PSU to power everything, so also your PI
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Do you think I can use a ground pin on the PI and to connect it to the com (ground) port on the PSU?
yes ground as much together as possible on separate pins, also when you exceed the lenght of datalines> be sure that the cable is used has thick diameter or use special datacable like FTP for data and CLK lines.
Power your ledstrip at both sides, the beginning and the end needs 5 volts. This is important to even out power in your strip.
check also interaction of signals on your strip, sometimes the datalines ( when not foiled/unprotected) pick up distortion which causes also flickering.
Test also with short lines i would suggest.