Beiträge von davieboy

    Sounds more like hardware rather than software, Hyperion appears to be doing its job as you mention it doesn't list on lsusb,


    what do you mean by crashing, just the capture card going awol or the full system crashes and needs the plug pulled?
    try tailing /var/log/syslog and see if it gives you any clues to why it crashed when it crashes


    After you reboot and it detects the device go to
    Hyperion Dash -> Configuration -> Capturing Hardware - USB Capture
    and manually define the device, decrease the resolution down and see what happens, prob for you is you have the HDMI splitter, scaler and grabber to troubleshoot.


    Good Luck

    Sounds more like hardware rather than software, Hyperion appears to be doing its job as you mention it doesn't list on lsusb so Hyperion cannot show it if its not there, have you tried dropping the resolution down to see if that helps any with how often it crashes?


    what do you mean by crashing, just the capture card going awol or the full system crashes and needs the plug pulled?

    if the colours are working as expected - crack on


    It may look like random flashing on the roll but when placed on the tv then position, rotation and starting position defined in Hyperion to match, it could be the pattern its taking from the capture device, point is you cant check it against anything apart from a solid colour until its fitted :thumbup:

    yeah, at least Hyperion supports that model :thumbup:


    Do they work as expected if you manually control them via the Remote Control section -> Colors/Effects , that colour picker should make them light up the colour you select.


    Quite hard to say of the match the tv when they are not fitted or defined, ie 60 top and bottom and 40 on each side


    The file @jeroen warmerdam mentioned is located at /boot/config.txt and check if this line is there dtparam=audio=off

    Code
    cat /boot/config.txt

    use the Hyperion app mate or the webui and set it to solid red, testing it the way i mentioned above only using the signal wire should show nearly 0 volts mate, if your doing it as mentioned and you are seeing 4-5v then there is a problem.

    just get Hyperion built, its no different to Home Assistant install deep down you know you want to and know it makes sense but paranoid about wasting money when the real waste may be in a prebuilt system as IRL it may not live up to expectations.


    Maybe have another look through forum, work out exactly what you need it to do and re assess,


    You wouldn't need to rebuild every time you get a new device providing you plan ahead when building to allow for other things, LEDs will work with any build and should only need replaced due to your satisfaction levels of colouring and lighting, WS2812 are most common and supported in nearly every LED project so you can always repurpose them if required, you will never go wrong with a good quality PSU - the lifetime of the Pi you will probably need an additional 2 power supplies over time anyway, mcu's are £3-£5 so pretty much disposable, capture cards are a hit or a miss but worth the gamble , Splitter setup would be the biggest investment but worth every penny in the long run esp if you get a good one that will allow you to add deives later- other method is the capture/loopback but as you can see they are quite pricey


    If you can hit 720 or 1080 on the leds via Hyperion is say you have a good setup that would be pretty darn accurate.


    Each to their own tho, good luck

    sounds like you should just buy an Philips AMbilight TV and this project is not for you. You have too many grey areas and unable to move components to desired locations to assist you in making it all work.


    Your video capture device needs to be semi decent to minimise other parts and poor quality but you may benefit from a decent splitter/grabber that allows the CEC etc and a cheap capture device, at the end of the day its only to get a signal for the lights, everything else is passing to the tv as normal to allow your HDR CEC etc.


    I went down the Hyperion route as it looked cool, i spent £20 on LEDs and used my pi4 straight on the GPIO with a phone charger - it worked perfectly as I only originally wanted my media player to light up the wall so Platform Capture done everything i needed.


    The more i used it the more i wanted my normal tv to light the wall too, so trial and error on cheap parts led me to buying a £45 Splitter and a cheap capture device - works perfectly even though capture device will only let me set the resolution of the leds to 720p its still beautiful. So i committed and upgraded the build.


    That suits me fine as I can access netflix, youtube amazon and all that Jazz from my TiVo box so the leds work with that too.


    Others use android grabber to grab their TV and send that to Hyperion - eliminating the need for any HDMI splitters or capture cards.


    So it boils down to how do you adapt it to suit your setup, where are the bulk of the apps etc that you use?


    Buying any prebuilt system always carrys the risk of scalability and future upgrading issues at least if you build it yourself you are in control.


    I am happy with the 720p from my capture card and will try another cheap one later to see if i can achieve the 1080, The devs at Hyperion are doing an awesome job and this will get better as time goes by so bugfixes and features will be added, can this be said about any prebuilt system? - good example of the downsides to prebuilt is here https://hyperion-project.org/t…or-preset-disabled.11357/


    but yeah £130 later and im glad i went the Hyperion route over any other method, I know my parts can be repurposed and reused if required

    it does sound power related, I ran mine from an old 2.5A phone charger and they worked fine - Turns out they do not draw anything higher than 2.1A


    Try this dave - get meter out, set to DC volts and specify the range to 00.00v - Check the output at the PSU - What is it?


    Next 1 - Keep same settings as above, put 1 meter lead at the start of the signal wire going to the lights (connector or strip a cable slightly) set the LEDS to full red, now the 2nd meter lead, check the various data line points or end of corner connectors - Your expecting to see as close to Zero as you can, you may see some slight voltage of up to maybe 0.5v but hopefully everything is very low - as on that test any voltage you see on the meter is choosing to go through the meter rather than your circuit (easiest route).


    You can do the same with power and earth connections, just go from positive or negative on the PSU to each positive or negative point around the LED strip - again the lower the voltage the better.


    PITA but a quick and easy test to check your connections and wiring.

    so maybe a chance they are running an effect rather than using any capture device?


    if you have setup your LEDs in the Configuration -> LED Hardware section (both tabs)


    double check your capture devices are setup platform or usb capture.


    Sounds like you don't have something setup correctly though, so the more info you can post the better chance of someone being able to help you :thumbup:

    well on my ws2812b setup Red is my biggest consumer of power if thats any help, but yeah that is strange what it is doing in the vids.


    few things tho, if you decrease the overall brightness down does the flicker still happen on the red screen.


    Have you tried a fresh flash on another SD card?

    or instead of the voice control to toggle the socket state you could setup a script on the pi that that would issue the shutdown command, Is it only Alexa you are using or do you use Home Assistant or anything similar?