At the beginning it was difficult for me to get it clearly what hardware is needed and how to connect it. Maybe this picture will be useful for others.
1) The Feintech Splitter has CEC support, so I can switch in/off TV using remote control of the Fire TV Stick.
2) 4k support OK.
3) Advantage of using WLED is that LED can be controlled separately using WLED App with lots of effects. At the beginning I had some doubts regarding communication from Raspverry Pi to WLED over WiFi, but it is not a problem at all, no delay.
4) Meanwell power supply is not the cheapest one, but it is fully protected against dust and is touch-protected. It also produces very stable voltage.
5) Without level shifter (even with very short data line) I had flickers of LEDs time to time. So I recommed using level shifter.
6) If LEDs are off (I have 128 in total for 65" TV), the power consumption of D1 mini board and LEDs together approximately 1.3 W. It is OK as a standby power, no need to switch them off.
7) Capture card gets quite warm (approx. 2W power losses too much for this small device). I think it will not survive for a long time under this condition, so it should be preferably switched off when TV is off. For that I am planning to use 5V from TV USB port as shown in the second picture. In this case restart of hyperion must be implemeted on Capture crad USB plug event (please refer to Restart Hyperion.NG on plug in the USB grabber). I do NOT power Raspberry Pi off because it also have other functions for me. you can do it if you only run hyperion on RPi. You can also power Feintech Splitter of, but then you cannot use CEC (turn TV on using Fire Stick remote control).
I bought 60W power supply. For 128 LEDs 45 W should be sufficient. I measured at maximum approximately 36 W.
9) The problem is also that in standby mode the Fire TV Stick apparently time to time disables HDMI output for some seconds, in that time the capture device see no HDMI input and produce standard test picture (RGB lines) as an output. As a result hyperion recognise it as a valid signal and turns on LEDs. There ar probably two solutions for that:
a) Switch off the capture device when TV is off (as decribed above under 7)
b) Use capture device which does not produce test picture but just black screen if there is no input signal. One such grabber is proposed in this post: RE: Übersicht/Tests digitale Grabber, post #193, Noname device from: https://de.aliexpress.com/item…0423126.96.36.1990a4c4dlD6ewW)