LOOP capturing devices purchased from Amazon or Ali Express >> how to set up in Hyperion.NG? problem of re-apearing all the time in remote section/drivers, Only Raspi NOT Windows pc

  • hello folks,



    because i read a lot of stories which i helped the members with this device i decided to make a thread out of this that goes for all capture devices type "LOOP"

    no i am not working at Amazon or Ali express. :D




    we are are talking about this type of above device>> function is originally to use it for live streaming from game-pc or what not to a video card to record the session, or too split the screen into a double output for tv and laptop so you and thee wife can watch the same program on diffrent screens. :thumbup::thumbup:


    a lot of people purchase this > they saw it in a video of Youtube and its really cheap. Its a nice device but in Hyperion.NG it needs special settings to work.

    if you use it as USB device then the capture device is always going to be detected and then rejected.

    Results is; it appears and vanishes as a device in remote section of WebUI.

    To not let this happen....


    Go to the WebUI and menu USB grabber;


    Device; USB video: USB video

    Input; Camera1 ( or higher)

    Resolution; in 16/9 lowest as possible and then build up the resolution

    Size decimation; set to at least 4 until 12 >> the higher count, the worse image

    Frames a second; 15FPS or go lower and higher.



    these settings should provide you a steady live-feed into Hyperion.NG, however nothing is to be said about the hardware that u use as a Raspi.

    you have diffrent Raspi's with each of them their own characteristics.


    PI0 = cheap and possibillity to use, but singlecore so with ( above) capturing device attached and running heavy OS can be to hard on the fellow..

    pi1= weak, dont use.

    pi2= okay but no HDMI port there and not really strong CPU to render the images out of grabber coming in.

    pi3= good, go for PI3b (PI3a is single core) thats a quadcore > you see that in results and its not expensive like 50$

    Pi4= excellent but only untill PI4 version 1.4 >> not 2.0 because Hyperion.NG is not supported yet on that version.



    there's something else, USB port of PI whats used it takes a toll on overall performances of the PI and his core ( will heat up)

    in a ball park, you can determine easy without all of kinds of codes if the PI is underclassified for the job you meant it to be doing.


    go to terminal in running process of the PI and use only this code:


    after the $: vcgencmd measure_temp


    you see right on the spot if the PI is too hot, so to hot ( over 80 degrees C) that means that CPU is not equipped for the job at hand.

    it has to run at high speed and cannot handle. ( same thing goes for your laptop> its blowing all the time the fan?? runs at max.


    there's something else that you can do, you can increase the ARM of the PI, and you can increase USB port power to the capturing device.


    #alter the ARM and insert force turbo line at own risk# it can damage your PI especially the older ones. :!:8|


    if you still want to to that, for that you have to go to config.txt and alter the ARM and USB line,

    go to your terminal in Putty or SSH


    cd /


    ls


    cd /boot


    sudo nano config.txt


    #uncomment to overclock the arm. 700 MHz is the default.

    arm_freq=900

    force_turbo=1


    max_usb_current=1





    Once the changes have been made, press Ctrl + X to save and exit.


    sudo reboot



    after reboot it should work and CPU running higher in ARM, USB port is more powerfull.

    https://www.raspberrypi.org/do…onfig-txt/overclocking.md


    shoot questions if you have them and goodluck with this mini-tutorial! ^^

    • Best Answer

    nice post, you should elaborate a bit the on the arm_freq and force_turbo as those commands used to destroy some older pi's and invalidated warranty


    your essentially overclocking the pi and with the extra heat it requires extra volts and cooling - lil disclaimer to let peeps know, esp if no heatsinks are fitted and if the pi is in a std plastic case


    slimming the o/s down or upgrading the hardware would be a more permanent solution imo esp for long term use :thumbup:

  • Thank you as this answers some of my questions of the moment.

    So you confirm that these devices can become hot (edit: sorry you say the Pi may)... and should probably be kept away from casings, unless a good ventilation is provided.

    What is the overall advantage of this 'loop'? Does it really avoid using a splitter?


    So what if I use this very cheap (without loop)? https://aliexpress.com/item/1005001814357176.html

    It saves cable connections and if it does the job...

    I have a Pi 3B+ and a W28Q2B led strip, nothing complicated.

  • What is the overall advantage of this 'loop'? Does it really avoid using a splitter?

    Yes people buy them because of that feature, HDMI feed goes in and UNALTERED goes out.


    The trick is the USB out, this is the video feed reduced to 1080p most of times .



    Ofcourse you can use a traditional capture device, for this you need most of times a splitter to split the signal from the source to tv and Hyperion

  • If I use a splitter, I need an HDMI cable to the grabber (connected to the Pi) and another one to the TV. That should be the logic...


    But I've seen a video with a splitter only connected to the grabber. From there, a USB cable to the Pi and an HDMI cable to the TV.

    I can't see how it's working, but if this is the way, the stick device is not appropriate.

    Is it?

  • Lighting-guy77

    Changed the title of the thread from “LOOP capturing devices purchased from Amazon or Ali Express >> how to set up in Hyperion.NG? problem of re-apearing all the time in remote section/drivers” to “LOOP capturing devices purchased from Amazon or Ali Express >> how to set up in Hyperion.NG? problem of re-apearing all the time in remote section/drivers, Only Raspi NOT Windows pc”.
  • Hey I have this weird issue, I did everything you said and everything works fine as long as I don't restart the pi. When the pi reboots the usb device still shows in hyperion but I get white signal noise instead of hdmi capture. Only way to fix it is to unplug hdmi from my xbox and plug it back in.


    adliberum-fear-the-white-noise.mp4.jpg

  • did you set these?


    Go to the WebUI and menu USB grabber;


    Device; USB video: USB video

    Input; Camera1 ( or higher)

    Resolution; in 16/9 lowest as possible and then build up the resolution

    Size decimation; set to at least 4 until 12 >> the higher count, the worse image

    Frames a second; 15FPS or go lower and higher.

  • Yes tried all the settings still not working :(

  • but I get white signal noise instead of hdmi capture. Only way to fix it is to unplug hdmi from my xbox and plug it back in.


    i think you have a EDID and or HDCP problem, has nothing to do with Hyperion.


    with EDID the device answers back, splitters/LOOP devices dont have that option which sometimes give problems at the source.

    the problem is that the device doesn't know there is a signal to begin with.

    HDCP problems make sure the signal from the source is not received by the device >> protection/security


    only way to fix this is use of a good splitter which supports EDID/HDCP

  • Is this thing alo capable of returning ARC signals from TV back to the AVR?


    ARC/eARC is not the main objective of splitters/LOOP devices.


    You have HDMI audio extractors for that, just attach it to your TV eARC HDMI port and MAIN HDMI out on the AVR

  • ARC/eARC is not the main objective of splitters/LOOP devices.


    You have HDMI audio extractors for that, just attach it to your TV eARC HDMI port and MAIN HDMI out on the AVR

    I think you got me wrong here. What I meant was: Does the device affect the ARC functionality of an existing setup.

    E. g. I use ARC to get audio from my TV back to my AVR, what ARC actually is all about.

    So I just want to know whether this is affected or crippled by the capture card in any way.

  • Does the device affect the ARC functionality of an existing setup.


    so really short,


    ARC most of times is a diffrent HDMI port *(2) on your tv, that is connected to AVR

    HDMI port *(1) then is used for main signal, whatever you do there should not interfere anything on port HDMI 2, thus.. HDMI 2 is only copying sound from other HDMI ports. Of course you can use port 2 not only for ARC/eARC, but then it can interfere the sound to AVR.

    the setup i am talking about isn't.


    * (1) (2) is just an example.




    second.

    AliExpress and Amazon cheap LOOP capturing devices are probably not equiped much to deal with CEC/ARC/eARC/HDCP or any other protocol that excists on HDMI.


    like this, https://nl.aliexpress.com/item…b201602_,searchweb201603_

    its not in the specs..

  • I am not sure what you are trying to tell me here mate.

    The loop would be placed just between the HDMI 1 output of the AVR and the HDMI (ARC capable) input of the TV. There is only one HDMI port on the TV thst does it all together. And only one cable.


    AVR HDMI 1 out -> Capture Device -> TV HDMI1 in (ARC)

  • I am not sure what you are trying to tell me here mate.

    i thought i was clear, but anyway.


    I understand that you have the setup with only one HDMI ARC port> i am telling you you can do it diffrent, its your choice.


    2 scenarious.


    1. only one HDMI channel in use on the tv for everything, possible but sometimes a hassle with external devices/capturing etc..
    2. 2 HDMI channel in use on tv. ARC HDMI channel ONLY for AVR, HDMI main channel on tv for TVIp box/Nvidia shield or anything else.

    in second setup you don't have to deal with ARC problems in your Hyperion.NG build, because the ARC channel is separate.

    I have it like that.


    i can not be any clearer to explain what i am talking about.

    and don't want to do this here on this thread, its only going to be difficult for others to understand > its not actual topic so i want to leave it at this.

  • Do you know of any usb grabber with loop that would work and wont break the bank? (under $100)


    i don't know grabbers with LOOP, but the one i have is from Xolorspace type 61121 and works really well

    https://xolorspace.com/product…th-downscaler-4k-to-1080p



    my setup is Nvidia shield TV PRO>

    Out1] Xolorspace splitter > HDMI channel 1 4KTV

    Out2] xolorspace splitter > HDMI/AV converter > 720p USB grabber > Raspi 3b


    that easy, CEC/HDCP works no problems with signals from the Nvidia shield TV PRO

    ARC/eARC is separate on diffrent HDMI channel 2 on TV because AVR isn't a 4K type and can not cope with 4K resolutions.

    I am using a HDMI audio extractor for that to AVR.

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