Is it possible to get a perfect sync?

  • Hi, all :)


    I've been wondering if it's possible to get a perfect LED-display output sync with Hyperion. I've tried a few different setups and they all have some margin of delay — not too bad, maybe a few milliseconds, but enough that it's noticeable. I was hoping to get some input on if there's something about my setup that would cause it (and how I can improve it).


    I started out with just a simple WS2812B strip connected directly to the pi zero w's GPIO pins, then I moved to using a level-shifter and powering from both sides as I needed longer cables. These setups worked pretty well, but the delay between my display and the LEDs was bugging me so I tried adding an Arduino Nano with FastLED to the mix and I'm still having issues.


    The delay with the Arduino seems to be about the same as it was when I had the lights hooked directly to the pi. I've tried setting the baud rate to 500,000, 1,000,000, 2,000,000 and in between and it all seems to look the same (IF the LEDs work at all. They'll sometimes just start with the boot-up LED test colors and then go dark, though I suspect that's because of the voltage spiking when everything starts up).


    Is there something I'm missing or is a perfect sync just not possible with Hyperion?


    Thanks, friends!!

  • i think you need to have a look at USB capturing settings at Hyperion, if these is to high setting it slows down the PI and recources is used is high.

    rendering cost a lot of calculating power in the PI/Hyperion from live feed to steering leds.



    so what i would do.


    juice up the settings of config.txt

    ARM setting (CPU) can be easy 900 instead of 700, or even higher. It means the PI runs on higher frequency thus more power. (like overclocking)



    then take a look at mentioned USB capturing, start with high decimation settings and low resolution in 16/9 > from that build up until the leds starts to delay.

    goodluck

  • what exactly is the perfect sync for you? instead of looking for "improving" th connection to ws2812b, i would suggest you to look for "fast" leds :-)



    if you look at the table you will see that the ws2812b are the "worst" leds.

    they only so popular, because you dont need a full spi connection (clock + data) and are mostly the cheapest in price...

  • Quote
    Lightning-guy77

    i think you need to have a look at USB capturing settings at Hyperion, if these is to high setting it slows down the PI and recources is used is high.

    rendering cost a lot of calculating power in the PI/Hyperion from live feed to steering leds.

    I've set my capture settings down low and decimation up to 20 and still have delay ?


    Quote

    juice up the settings of config.txt

    ARM setting (CPU) can be easy 900 instead of 700, or even higher. It means the PI runs on higher frequency thus more power. (like overclocking)

    Sorry, I'm very new to this (this is my first pi project). Where is that value?

  • Sorry, I'm very new to this (this is my first pi project). Where is that value?

    its in boot section of your SD card



    looks like this




    # For more options and information see

    # http://rpf.io/configtxt

    # Some settings may impact device functionality. See link above for details


    # uncomment if you get no picture on HDMI for a default "safe" mode

    #hdmi_safe=1


    # uncomment this if your display has a black border of unused pixels visible

    # and your display can output without overscan

    disable_overscan=1


    # uncomment the following to adjust overscan. Use positive numbers if console

    # goes off screen, and negative if there is too much border

    #overscan_left=16

    #overscan_right=16

    #overscan_top=16

    #overscan_bottom=16


    # uncomment to force a console size. By default it will be display's size minus

    # overscan.

    framebuffer_width=1920

    framebuffer_height=1080


    # uncomment if hdmi display is not detected and composite is being output

    hdmi_force_hotplug=1


    # uncomment to force a specific HDMI mode (this will force VGA)

    #hdmi_group=1

    #hdmi_mode=1


    # uncomment to force a HDMI mode rather than DVI. This can make audio work in

    # DMT (computer monitor) modes

    #hdmi_drive=2


    # uncomment to increase signal to HDMI, if you have interference, blanking, or

    # no display

    #config_hdmi_boost=4


    # uncomment for composite PAL

    #sdtv_mode=2


    # uncomment to overclock the arm. 700 MHz is the default.

    arm_freq=850

    force_turbo=1

    max_usb_current=1


    # Uncomment some or all of these to enable the optional hardware interfaces

    dtparam=i2c_arm=on

    dtparam=i2s=on

    dtparam=spi=on


    # Uncomment this to enable infrared communication.

    #dtoverlay=gpio-ir,gpio_pin=17

    #dtoverlay=gpio-ir-tx,gpio_pin=18


    # Additional overlays and parameters are documented /boot/overlays/README


    # Enable audio (loads snd_bcm2835)

    #dtparam=audio=on


    [pi4]

    # Enable DRM VC4 V3D driver on top of the dispmanx display stack

    #dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d

    max_framebuffers=2


    [all]

    #dtoverlay=vc4-fkms-v3d

    start_x=1

    gpu_mem=128

    enable_uart=1

  • Quote

    TPmodding

    what exactly is the perfect sync for you? instead of looking for "improving" th connection to ws2812b, i would suggest you to look for "fast" leds :-)

    Ideally I'd like to have the colors exactly match the rate the screen is updating. I've been using Breath of the Wild to test, and ( for example) when I pass in front of a fire, the red/orange color displayed on the LEDs trails behind the fire on-screen, taking a bit to catch up with it.


    Quote

    if you look at the table you will see that the ws2812b are the "worst" leds.

    they only so popular, because you dont need a full spi connection (clock + data) and are mostly the cheapest in price...

    I've been looking into getting some APA102s, but I just can't justify shelling out $60 – $70 for LEDs when I've already cut a strip and thus can't return it...

  • are you using smoothing settings? if you are then delay is also there and can be altered



    60$ for APA102? depends how much leds the meter, i have the 30L/mtr APA102 and its affordable


    i think they are 32€ at Ali Express BTF lighting

  • I've played around with smoothing a bit, mostly kept it at around 150. Tried turning it off at one point but didn't even pay attention to the difference since the effect looked so jarring to me. I'll try changing it more and adjusting that ARM setting you suggested
    later tonight though!!


    I'd like to with 60 LEDs/M and have a 65" TV, so I need around 5M to cover it. I'll keep shopping around for sure though. Do the APA102s make that much of a difference over WS2812Bs on an Arduino?

  • I also had a problem with a very slight delay in led.
    It lowered resolution and adjusted all settings for two months.

    We've reached some level of satisfaction, but in a very quick screen transition,
    A delay of 0.1 to 0.2 seconds was felt.


    And the most satisfactory configuration I've ever found is...
    It was esp8266 + wled.
    Led follows the TV video well even on a very fast screen.
    Led is ws8212b 5m 300led (1m/60led).


    Smoothing is a recent test video with the status turned off.

    Attach the link.

    https://blog.naver.com/lomazzi/222360798148

  • It is my hardware and software.

    lg 75inch tv +
    pi4(2g) + hyperion + hdmi grabber(2.0) + hdmi splitter
    esp8266(cp2102) + wled + level converter + ws8212 5m 300led
    5V 8A Power Supply (Start and End Power Connection)

    Settings in hyperion

    device resolution --- 720x480
    frames per second --- 30
    smoothing --- off

    Only the above three changes were made.

    This is a picture of esp8266 and level converter that receives signals wirelessly from the pi4.


Participate now!

Don’t have an account yet? Register yourself now and be a part of our community!